Berlin was city I visited the first time I ever went to Germany, aged 14. No city has ever captured my imagination in the same way - even though I was still pretty much a little girl on holiday with her parents, and therefore not yet not into clubbing, bar-hopping, or other more hedonistic, "grown-up" activities, there was something about it that struck me, even if all of it I knew were the more touristy and staid parts now so often sniffed at by the cool folk of Kreuzkölln and Friedrichshain. It felt exceedingly energetic and exciting, maybe only because I was fourteen and the biggest most bustling metropolis I knew was Dublin (where it takes twenty minutes, tops, to walk the city centre end-to-end.) Nevertheless, I ended up returning to Berlin again and again, sometimes with my parents (who were also besotted with its history and its "trendiness") for a weekend or for a few weeks in the summer, sometimes on field trips with university, and sometimes with friends. Each time I learned something new about the place, saw it in a new light, and - barf bags at the ready! - fell in love with it even more. I always hoped that one day I could move over for good, and in 2014 I got the chance to spend a year there studying at the Humboldt-Universität on Erasmus. It was an incredible year, but it just wasn't long enough! I felt so at home, and sometimes I really resented that my days were numbered and eventually I'd have to come back home to finish my degree.
Berlin is a fantastic place to be yourself and do your own thing. It's a tremendously diverse city where people from all over the world and from all walks of life live together in acceptance of each other. It's also massive, and with 3.5 million other people around you it's likely you'll just blend in anyway, no matter how self-conscious or "different" you might feel. With this in mind, I thought I'd have a go at compiling my own little guide to Berlin, aimed at the solo traveller. I know there are lots of people who would balk at the idea of visiting such a big city in what is perhaps an unfamiliar country with an unfamiliar language and culture all by themselves, but trust me - if you're already comfortable with the idea of your own company for a couple of days, you couldn't pick a better destination than Berlin! It's safe (I've encountered more street harassment and have always felt, in general, much less safe in Dublin), it's interesting, it's affordable, and it's beautiful. Jaw-achingly beautiful.
So here we go! These are my recommendations, and are places I often would have visited alone or activities I would have undertaken solo over the course of my year living there. Keep reading for as many of Berlin's best (in my humble opinion) restaurants, bars, cafés, cinemas and attractions you could shake a stick at!
Grub's Up - Restaurants
Nil
Forget everything you know about falafel - Nil does it so much better. It's Sudanese (that'd be "Nil" as in the German word for the River Nile) and it's absolutely delicious and completely unpretentious. Its three restaurants are small, typically only with seating for five people, but you can get your grub to go and enjoy it one of the many parks or squares nearby instead (I like Boxhagenerplatz and along the Landwehrkanal in Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg respectively) or in the summer sit outside on one of their picnic tables. Everything comes with a special recipe peanut sauce, and I haven't come across anything similar elsewhere in Berlin. It's a steal too, at about €4 for a generously-sized falafel sandwich that will keep you full for ages. I couldn't recommend Nil more if you want something quick, unfussy, and delicious. (Also great for vegans and vegetarians!)
Grünberger Str. 52, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain with locations at Boxhagener Str. 27, 10245 Berlin and Oppelner Str. 4, 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg also
http://www.nil-imbiss.de/en/index.html
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| Photo credit: facesofberlin.org |
Schiller Burger
Burgers are a big deal in Berlin, and while I've never found them to be as good as they can be at home (that'd be the 100% Irish beef) there are some pretty good options. Having tried quite a few of Berlin's most popular burger joints (The Bird, Burgermeister and White Trash Fast Food deserve honourable mentions!) I think Schiller Burger is by far my favourite. They're so popular, they've opened up all over the city so you're never too far away from one. Each burger and side dish is named after a famous work by the German poet and playwright Friedrich Schiller, and the burgers are always juicy and fresh. There's also good veggie options, and the sweet potato fries in particular are excellent. Like Nil, Schiller Burger is a casual and very relaxed affair and you won't feel at all out of place rocking up on your Todd. The staff are friendly, and if you really feel like a bit of a pariah dining solo, you can get your grub to go.
Wülischstr. 41/42, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain (this was my local Schiller Burger, but they also have restaurants in Neukölln, Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, Pankow, Schöneberg, Marzahn, and Weissensee - phew!)
http://www.schillerburger.com/#anchorIntro
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| Photo credit: kiezkind.myentdecker.de |
Datscha
Datscha, while still pretty casual and low-key, involves pushing the boat out a bit further than Nil or Schiller Burger. It's a bit pricier, at about €10.50 for a main, but it's well worth it. Datscha takes its name from the Russian word for the summer houses to which many families in the former Eastern Bloc would retire for a bit of rural rest and relaxation. That alone was enough to pique my interest! They blend the "historically country nature of traditional Russian cuisine with the culinary innovations of today" and the result is lots of hearty, tasty and wholesome dishes. I'd recommend the wareniki with hummus filling and herbal yoghurt, and to sit outside in sunny weather to people watch, or get cosy inside and admire the kitschy Russian knick-knacks on darker, colder days.
Gabriel-Max-Str. 1, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain (a lot of these places are in Friedrichshain as I used to live there, so it's where I would have hung out the most!)
http://cafe-datscha.de/en/
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| Photo credit: cafe-datscha.de |
Pizza Vira
Pizza Vira was a staple of my time living in Berlin-Friedrichshain. It's quick, it's filling, it's friendly, and it's as good as they come outside Italy. Great selection of delicious pizzas and pastas for a very reasonable price in a bustling self-service (you order and collect your food from a counter and organise your own cutlery, but the staff are really great and always on hand if you need them) restaurant which is great for the solo diner as you won't feel out of place in the melee, with outdoor seating for when the sun is shining. Myself and my flatmate Sofia essentially lived off their food as was just up the street. The guys working in there even began to recognise us.
Warschauer Str. 63, 10243 Berlin-Friedrichshain
http://www.pizza-vira.de/
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| Photo credit: ausfremdenbloggen.com |
Café Morgenland
Last of the restaurants I'll be talking about, but certainly not least. It's probably the closest you'll get to the a la carte menus we have in Ireland, at least in the sense that the menu is big and there's plenty of selection. Massive portions and my vegetarian pals were always well catered for. It's on Skalitzerstraße in Kreuzberg, which is one of the most interesting streets - and indeed areas - in Berlin, making it idea for people watching and rather than standard windows, the walls facing onto the street are made up of glass panels which are opened wide in the summer. It's also a very popular spot for weekend brunch, so much so that it's wise to book in advance. It's said to be one of the best brunch buffets in Berlin, where you can get all the usual staples with a Turkish twist.
Skalitzer Str. 35, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg
No website, but here's their Yelp: http://www.yelp.de/biz/caf%C3%A9-morgenland-berlin-2
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| Photo credit: likealocalguide.com |
Time for Tea - Cafés
Café Krone
My all-time favourite-ever place to go with either my iPad or a good book in Berlin, if not the entire world. It has mismatched chintzy old furniture, a mixture of big dining tables for larger groups and pairs of squishy armchairs for those by themselves or pairs of friends, and they have lovely teapots with a rose motif. Not only can you get mouthwatering homemade cakes and scones to wash down with a tea, coffee, or fresh juice, they also have a mean selection of sandwiches, soups, salads, and other light bites. If you want something more substantial than a sweet treat, get the Krone sandwich - a double decker of chicken, bacon and avocado. I sometimes even catch myself daydreaming about it. It's close to Mauerpark (more about that further down) which makes it a great place to pop into after a Sunday morning's scouring the flea market for bargains.
Oderberger Str, 38, 10435 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
http://www.krone-berlin.com/
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| Photo credit: berlininterior.com |
Kiezeklein
They say good things come in small packages, and they were certainly right about Kiezeklein. It's positively tiny, but the friendly-faced staff, fast WiFi, laid-back vibe and delicious homemade cookies more than make up for that. You'll encounter all sorts in here - young couples and pairs of friends, middle-aged family reunions (yes really, albeit on a smaller scale), men in suits, and hippie chick mothers popping in with their kids. It's right in the middle of the grittier side of Kreuzberg so it's grand and handy.
Mariannenstr. 7, 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg
http://kiezeklein.com/en/
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| Photo credit: workfrom.com |
Salon Schmück
Similar ambience to Café Krone, but dingier. I think it'd be the epitome of what's known as "shabby chic"- bockety old (yet somehow still comfy) sofas and chairs, low tables, and a separate (indoor) smoking area. (Ireland in 2004 it ain't.) I don't drink coffee so I can't comment on that but they have a nice selection of teas and cakes and the girls who served me were very helpful. Nice place to while away some time catching up on emails and keeping up with world back home.
Skalitzer Str. 80, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg
http://www.salon-schmueck.de/
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| Photo credit: landmeedchen.com |
Louise Chérie
It's French-owned (a lot of the clientele seem to be French, too) and describes itself as a little piece of France in the heart of Berlin-Friedrichshain, and it's ideal if you have a hankering for a nice piece of quiche, which is how I first came across this place. It's got the charm of a rustic French farmhouse and you're guaranteed to get service with a smile and a merci.
Grünbergerstr. 9, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain
http://louisecheriecafe.de/
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| Photo credit: notquiteberlin.com |
Dresden in Kreuzberg
Café serving lovely cakes and sweets as well as small dishes made with organic ingredients by day, cosy and familiar neighbourhood bar by night. It's lit primarily by candlelight, so maybe not the best place to come if you want to get some serious reading done without doing your eyes damage, but the atmosphere is lovely all the same.
Dresdener Str. 19, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg
No website, so here's their Yelp: http://www.yelp.de/biz/dresden-in-kreuzberg-berlin
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| Photo credit: stilinberlin.com |
It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere - Bars
Slap bang in the middle of Friedrichshain's bar scene, Dachkammer is pretty much guaranteed to draw a crowd. It's fine to go in groups but equally nice to sit and enjoy a drink there by yourself. It does get pretty loud though, so if you're a bit of a shrinking violet I'd stick to going earlier before it really gets going, around 8pm or so. Kitted out with that shabby, chintzy decor (chintz is a bit of a running theme in Berlin) it has a retro vibe and the seating on the street is especially nice for catching the last few rays of sun in the evening and watching the world go by.
Simon-Dach-Str. 39, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain
http://www.dachkammer.com/
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| Photo credit: designntrend.com |
Mano
I loved this place, mostly because the loft bunk they'd turned into a seating area really captured my imagination. I never got to sit up there myself, but maybe you'll brave it? They do all the usual stuff - beers, wine, and a great albeit slightly pricey selection of cocktails. Dimly-lit and cosy, and a very comfy spot to unwind after a long day of sightseeing.
Skalitzer Str, 46a, 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg
https://www.facebook.com/mano.cafe/
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| Photo credit: suitesculturelles.wordpress.com |
Filmkunstbar Fitzcarraldo
A firm favourite of mine and my group of Berlin friends for dancing on a Saturday night - the best of the 70s and the 80s in a small little dive bar that always seemed to exude joy and happiness. As is made clear from the number of tatty old film posters to be spotted everywhere, it's actually also a video rental store and you can even pop down to the basement to peruse their sizable collection. While a noisy spot where throwing a few shapes is pretty much encouraged may not be every solo visitor to Berlin's cup of tea, hear me out. It's usually pleasantly quiet and calm enough for a drink during the week, and even if you did rock up by yourself late at the weekend nobody would bat an eyelid and you'd likely make a few friends to boot. A must-visit, if only because the kind of night out you'll have here is so different to any you'd have at home in Ireland.
Reichenberger Str. 133, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg
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| Photo credit: yelp.com |
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| Photo credit: thomas-kaffeeklatsch.sellymedia.de |
You should really go to Klunkerkranich - nay, you must go to Klunkerkranich! - if you find yourself in Berlin in the summertime. It's a rooftop bar and garden on top of a shopping centre's multi-storey car park. Come on a sunny afternoon to enjoy spectacular views across the city in a really unique and cool setting. Come in the evening for live music or a DJ set and equally stunning views as the city below is bathed in darkness and lit up by street- and headlights.
Karl-Marx-Str. 66, 12043 Berlin-Neukölln
http://www.klunkerkranich.de/
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| Photo credit: awesomeberlin.de |
Soulcat
Also in Neukölln, Soulcat is a nice wee bar that prides itself on its great taste in music (retro hits of the 50s and 60s) and also shows football live on a big screen, which is interesting as I didn't come across too many "funky" bars in Berlin that did this. Nice place to go with a group of friends for a few drinks, but you won't feel out of place by yourself, particular if you come to cheer on one of those, er, sports teams.
Pannierstr. 53, 12047 Berlin-Neukölln
http://soulcat-berlin.com/
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| Photo credit: jessieonajourney.com |
All Work and No Play Makes Jack a Dull Boy - Things To Do
Tempelhofer Feld
Without a doubt, the coolest public park in the entire city - and there are many. It used to be Berlin's third airport, but shut in 2007 and now the runways are open to the public to walk, jog, skateboard, cycle, scoot, rollerblade, and fly kites on. There's huge expanses of green to sunbathe on or sit and read a book and have a picnic, and there are special designated areas where you can set up a barbeque. It's definitely the place to come to stroll off those kebabs and currywursts you've been enjoying maybe just a little too liberally.
Tempelhofer Damm 90, 12101 Berlin-Tempelhof (easiest to reach from U- and S-Bahn Tempelhof on the Ringbahn - follow the crowds!)
| Photo credit: tempelhoferfeld.info |
Flohmarkt Mauerpark
The Sunday flea market in Prenzlauer Berg's Mauerpark (literally "wall park", and one of the places you can see remnants of the Berlin Wall) is a Berlin institution. It's massive and you can find pretty much everything under the sun here - organic products, designer sunglasses, second-hand Uzbekistani-language novels, posters, furniture, vintage clothing, handbags, bicycles, tools and hardware, records, CDs and cassettes, children's toys, jewellery made out of Lego bricks, and a big variety of ethnic food (if it's still there, the Ghanaian food truck is not to be missed. The fried banana and the "Accra Jumping" plates are especially good.) When you've finished scouring the jumble for bargains, grab yourself a cold bottle of beer or the Berlin student population's staple, Club Mate, and head for Bearpit Karaoke - it's exactly what it sounds like. You'll get the young and the old, the seriously talented and the tone deaf, and the stage-frightened and the overly-confident up to belt out their favourite tune and - put it this way - audience input and participation is encouraged.
Gleimstr. 55, 10437 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
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| Photo credit: berlin.enjoy.com |
Zukunft am Ostkreuz
This is a bar on the fringes of Friedrichshain (it takes a bit of work to get to) that hosts an open-air cinema showing a mix of new releases and old favourites during the summer months. The films are projected onto a courtyard wall and you can sink into a deckchair with a warm blanket and a beer to enjoy them. If the film is in English it'll be shown in English with German subtitles, but it probably pays to check ahead on their website before you trek out. (If you see OmU next to the film title, it means it's shown in the original language with (German) subtitles.) You never know what they could be showing - I ended up going to see Calvary starring Brendan Gleeson set in the west of Ireland with a bunch of Dutch friends once. It's a lovely way to spend an evening.
Laskerstr. 5, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain
http://zukunft-ostkreuz.de/
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| Photo credit: zukunft-ostkreuz.de |
b:ware!ladenkino
So you read all about the open-air cinema at Zukunft am Ostkreuz and got really excited to go and check it out, but when you arrive in Berlin it's pelting rain or simply too chilly to be sitting out on a deckchair once the sun's gone down. Fear not, for there is an alternative - B:Ware Ladenkino. This is a small little cinema that sells tickets far cheaper than any of the large cinema chains, and also has a pretty good offering of the latest releases from both Germany and abroad. (The OmU rule mentioned above applies again here.) Best of all, there are no massive impersonal cinema theatres here - you'll enjoy your chosen film from the comfort of an armchair or couch in what feels like someone's big living room. They also serve teas, coffees, soft drinks and cinema snacks (and probably also beer).
Gärtnerstr. 19, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain
http://ladenkino.de/
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| Photo credit: mietrebellen.de |
Garage
No doubt your stay in trendy Berlin will have a bit of an effect on you and you'll want to update your wardrobe accordingly. Garage can help you with that! It's a massive vintage and second-hand warehouse filled with the weird and the wonderful, and you can pay by weight (there are scales dotted throughout the store) or if you're short on luggage space, you can pay by the individual item. If, like me, no trip to a new city is complete without a bit of retail therapy, Garage is the place to go without feeling like you could be looking at the exact same clothes in any city in the world (I'm looking sternly at you, H&M).
Ahornstr. 2, 10787 Berlin-Schöneberg
http://kleidermarkt-vintage.de/
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| Photo credit: stilinberlin.com |
It can reach up to 40 degrees celcius in Berlin during the summer months, and you're going to want to cool off sooner or later. The outskirts of Berlin are dotted with many lovely lakes that are safe to swim in and extremely refreshing in the blistering heat, and my personal favourite was always Krumme Lanke. It's not privately owned or managed like Wannsee or Müggelsee, so there are no lifeguards, lockers, cafeterias, or entrance fees. You just show up, find a spot, lay out your towel and soak up the sun. Obviously if you're going by yourself it would make sense to take as few valuables as possible, and if you do decide to leave anything valuable behind when you go for a dip, keep a close eye on it. That said, I've gone before in groups when nobody was willing to stay and mind the stuff, and it all remained intact. Folk are generally very sound like that, but you just never know. Minor personal safety and security concerns aside, Krumme Lanke is beautiful. Bring a picnic and your sunglasses.
No address per se, but my best advice is to take the U3 to Krumme Lanke and walk down Fischerhüttenstr. for about ten minutes until you reach the lake
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| Photo credit: schoenes-berlin.de |
So that's it! Those are my top recommendations, whether you're arriving in Berlin not knowing a soul or rocking up with a group of nine of your closest friends. I've done my best to make sure everything is up to date and accurate, but if you spot a mistake let me know. Also, it has to be said that Berlin is a massive city and there are hundreds of so many other great places to go it'd be impossible to compile an exhaustive list - and I'm sure I've never even heard of lots of them! Honourable mentions, however, must go to Monbijoupark in Mitte, Boxhagener Platz flea market in Friedrichshain, Teufelsberg in Grünewald, and the Turkish Wochenmarkt in Kreuzberg, as well as the many other hundreds of events that happen throughout the year. I'd recommend keeping an eye on Time Out Berlin (timeout.com/Berlin), EXBERLINER (exberliner.com) and The Needle (needleberlin.com) to stay up to date.
If you happen to try any of these places, I'd love to hear how you get on! Other suggestions and recommendations are also very much welcomed in the comments below!
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